Of Bodice Linings...

With plan in hand and supplies gathered I am starting on my dress...

In case someone who does not normally make garb as a past time is reading this blog, I'll explain how much is required for this to happen:

On average the supplies needed for a renaissance dress are:

• At lease 7 yards of fabric for the gown itself. (That is a modest amount) Total each of my dresses have taken around 12-14 yards depending on the detail work required.
• 9-12 yards of plastic boning,
• 3 yards of fusible interfacing,
• Grommets and grommet pliers
• Hooks and eyes,
  
• Three sets of scissors (Heavy duty for cutting boning and wire, craft scissors for cutting paper and other non-fabric items, and my fabric scissors)
• Two seam rippers. One at the sewing machine, and one by the couch where I hole up when I make a major mistake.
• Bobbins, thread (black, white, and matching the color(s) of the gown.
• I have both the thin regular fabric pins, but I also buy the more heavy duty/ oddly cheaper thick long pins that work so well with drapery fabrics.
• Last but not least is the oddest item in my arsenal of dress making supplies: Three packages of Joann's Craft Essentials Silver Photo Hangers: I use them for my bodice lacings. I'll explain it in a later blog. It's quite innovative- (I don't know what I'll do when they stop selling these things.)

Enough preparation: Let's sew!

Starting out the process I cut out all of the bodice in fabric, lining, and because I like to make sure that my dress has the right shape and holds up to wear well, interfacing.

Because I'm using Simplicity Pattern 8881 as my base, I lay down the pattern on the fold. The pattern calls for the center front of the bodice to be cut and seamed down the center. I personally don't like seams down my front, so I cut my bodice on the fold. I also want it a bit wider than the patter shows, because I'm going for a more Tudor look to my neckline. So, I allow it a bit more width, and I'm also cutting it a bit lower so I can give it a "v" shape rather than the rounded tip. If you would like to keep it narrow, simply cut on the fold and take out the seam allowance provided by the pattern.

For each piece of the bodice I will need: Two of my main fabric (except for the center front), four lining (only two for the center front), and six of the interfacing (only three for the center front)

As you can see I'm cutting my pattern bigger than needed. I'm adding a bit more room to add the lacing that I will explain later in the process. I'm also dropping the bottom of the pattern by about an inch and a half- the reason for this is, I have used this pattern before and found that it rides a bit high on the skirt. The correct Renaissance style should not show any of the waistband, thus I am adding to the length to fix this problem.

Next Step: Interfacing

Taking a hot iron, I fuse the interfacing to my lining and outside fabric. Be careful when you are doing this so you don't accidentally fuse to the wrong side of the fabric.

To alleviate this problem, I pin the pieces of interfacing together when I cut them out double thick. Then I use the interfacing to determine which way the lining should lay on the ironing board, turn the lining over and press. I finish up with my main fabric, thus if there are any problems I haven't ruined my expensive fabric.

Time to adapt the pattern. As I said earlier, I wanted to change the front of this gown to match the style of the dress in my inspiration picture: It has a slightly rounded front. I also wanted a "V" shaped point at the bottom of the dress to go along with my Tudor derived style. Folding the center front, I pulled the bodice pattern from 2589. (Of course it won't fit perfectly, but it does give me the correct angle for the point and has a nice curve to the top.) Laying it atop my center front, I clipped the interfaced fabric to fit my needs.

The remaining parts of the bodice do not need to be adapted at this time. The sections of the center front that I adapted do not really change the seams so I'll be fine with these few modifications.

Next step. Pinning the lining together interfacing to interfacing, I sewed around each of the pieces leaving the top of the center front open and the bottoms of the other pieces open so I can add the boning.

Starting at the center line of the center front, I sew a single seam in the lining. This will be my marker for the boning channels. Using the foot of my sewing machine as a guide, I make 1/2 inch apart seams across to either end of the bodice front.

I step away from the pattern instructions for a second. I've found that if you sew in the front side before you add the channels for the boning you will get a better fit. Matching the marks, I sew the center front and the front side together. Going back, I add the channels in the places required by pattern 8881. Next, I follow the pattern instructions for the back and the back sides. Last I seam the sides together, followed by the shoulders.

Usually at this time, I make any adaptations I need to with the size of the bodice. In general Simplicity patterns tend to run a size large, thus I add a tuck under the armseye and another tuck in the back in order to get the best fit possible.

Clipping my seams, I press the lining of the garment flat. Next I add the boning. Using my craft scissors I clip the ends into a "U" shape. This will make it more comfortable and will lessen the likelyhood of the boning ripping through your fabric.

I prefer to measure the boning by sliding it into the channel until it fits snuggly, then clip the other end. I've found that this makes for less waste.

It's also important to remember the boning up against the side seams. Having boning in these locations will make sure that your bodice doesn't buckle in these places and look bulky.

Your finished piece will bend a bit in the middle. this is to be expected and will stop happening after you attach the main fabric and/or wear the garment for the first time.

Now that I have made the required changes to the bodice, I can work with the main fabric without experimenting and ruining the fabric.