How to sandwich seams in an Elizabethan underskirt.

A Note From the Cutting Table:

This is a strange post because I have to set the orange dress aside to create something entirely new.  My cousin, Melissa needs a new dress... so in the next few posts, I plan to make a dress in only a few days.  This will be a unique project because my cousin has a very ample bust.  Rather than squeeze her into one of the standard patterns, I plan to use my old costuming shop skills to make her a bust that will provide her support AND comfort rather than squeezing down her girls into pancakes.  Stay tuned for the first post in the two day event and wish me luck.

Underskirt Info: 

For now, I am not writing a detailed post.  This is just a holding spot for the underskirt pictures.  I promise as soon as I can, I will return and write a proper blog for this page.

Katie

How to hide your seams on the underskirt without creating bulges: 

I like clean seams.  I prefer to use French Seams.  I have a great tutorial for it in this blog.  However, when making an underskirt that has been heavily beaded French Seaming wasn't an option.  

If you run into a similar problem, here is how you solve it:

1.  First step, I laid the front panel of the underskirt face up on the carpet.  Leave it there.  (It will behave)

2. Next gather up whatever side pieces and center back pieces you need to have.

  NOTE: Do not sew up the center back at this point.  

Sew up the side pieces with their corresponding center back.  Again: I used a french seam, so there are no raw edges.    With the french seams facing the carpet, roll up the two side skirt pieces until only the seam edges are accessible   

3.  Laid the rolled sections face down on the front of the skirt.  (Make sure your french seam folds are facing the ceiling.)

4. Next, lay the lining for the front panel on top of the rolled side pieces and the front panel.  The rolled pieces should be sandwiched between the front panel and its lining. 

5.  Sew up the sides.  No need to French Seam.  These seams will remain hidden throughout the life of the gown.  

6.  Pull open the front panel sandwich and extract the rolled side pieces.  

the skirt should lay out flat with the lining on one side and...

 ....the front panel on the other.  The seams you just sewed will be hidden within the dress.  

6.  Sew up the back seam and presto!   You're underskirt is ready for a waistband.  Now... I choose to connect my underskirt and over-skirt together.  This is a personal choice.  I don't like my skirt twisting as I walk.  If you would like to have a separate waistband.  This would be the time to add it.  For right now I'm setting the underskirt aside until the over skirt is ready.  

NEXT TIME: A DRESS IN 48 HOURS.... CAN IT BE DONE?????

ALSO: HOW TO MODIFY A BODICE.